So, we start of the Girivihar’s Blog with the topics very dear to us and the one we wouldn’t mind reading again. An Overview of Western Ghats and Sahyadris written by Mr. Rohan R. Rao for iVenturez magzine.
An introduction
Standing tall, the age defying strength of Sahyadris bears testimony to the fact that the wrath of nature could be serendipity. The charring heat of the magma that the blasted through the earth ages ago and destroyed the then existing biodiversity, now is one of the most beautiful heritage of the India - The Sahyadris.
The beauty that Sahyadri heralds, encompasses a wide domain of subjects ranging from natural flora and fauna including some exquisite herbs and rare species of wildlife. Beside the bio-diversity that it houses, the sky kissing heights of Sahyadris plays an important role in the redirecting the potential of the torrential monsoon winds. And ofcourse, one cannot forget the magnanimous role that it portrayed in the Swarajya movement in the yesteryears - of course that is with a rich historical perspective. Sahyadris is truly a sentinel of glory, a standing testimony to the magic of nature, geology and history.
The Western Ghats and the Sahyadris
Many a times, Sahyadris and Western ghats are exchanged for cross references. However, to be specific Sahyadri is just the northern part of Western Ghats. The Western ghat, as the name suggests runs along the length of coastline in a North-South direction and separates the coastal plains of Konkan from the Deccan plateau. The western ghat runs across the states of Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka and Kerala - including the ranges of Sahyadris, Nilgiris and Annamalai respectively. They cover an area of about 160,000 km² and stretch for 1,600 kilometers from the country’s southern tip in Kerala upto the Tapti river basin of Gujarat in the north, with only the Palghat gap in Kerala. The entire length of the Western ghat along with the Srilanka has been labelled as one of 34 global biodiversity hotspots.
Geological Role
As the geography dictates, the ridge of the western ghat runs in North-South direction and is flanked by the Eastern and Western slopes. The eastern slope of Western ghat (towards the Deccan plateau) is more gradual and of an easier gradient as compared to the western slope, which is more or less a steep fall of thousands of metres into the Konkan plains. It is this steep gradient that plays a very important role in the rain showers in these parts. The steep rise of these peaks from the Konkan plains prevents the monsoons winds from passing over and confines the heavy rains to Konkan, leaving eastern parts of the plateau in relative rain shadow zones. The crest line receives max rainfall where measurements vary from 4,000 to 6,000 mm (with 80 percent of it falling during the southwest monsoon from June to September). Lying in the rain shadow, the eastern slopes of the Sahyadris receive significantly less rainfall, but the hills and favourable terrain serve as a critical catchment for key eastern-flowing rivers such as the Godavari and Krishna. Whilst on the other hand, on the Konkan side the Rivers run a very short course before emptying in the salinity of Arabian Sea.
The Sahyadris serve a crucial role in providing nearby cities with a perennial water supply. As we have in these parts - an eight-month dry season, it is the presence of these forests and favourable terrain to absorb and retain monsoon rains and crucial role play by these parameters is of utmost importance to continue to cycle. Our commercial capital - Mumbai, more than any other city, is completely dependent on reservoirs and catchment areas like Tansa, Vaitarna provided by the Sahyadris. Other major hubs like Pune and Nasik too benefit from the protection of the natural forests in the hills.
Extent and Geography
Western Ghats is formed predominantly by the Saputara and Vindhya ranges extending in East-West direction and forming the northern limit; the Sahyadris and Nilgiris running in North-South direction and forming most of the length its length and the Annamalai range in the Kerala bordering the southern end of the ghats. Though the term ‘Sahyadris’ is used interchangeably with the description of the entire Western Ghats, it is more accurate to associate the Sahyadris with the hills running from the tri-junction of Goa, Karnataka and Maharashtra northwards to the Tapti River near the Gujarat border.
The Sahyadri range is narrow, about 10-20 km. wide from east to west, and about 640 km. long running along the length of Maharashtra and some parts of Goa. As mentioned above, the western face rises dramatically and very steeply from the moist Konkan Coast while on the eastern flanks they fall more gently into the expansive and arid (relatively; owing to the rain fall pattern dictated by the topography) Deccan Plateau. The average height is roughly 1,000 m. in the Sahyadris; Kalsubai near Nashik with a height of 1,646 m. being the highest peak in Maharashtra.
Formation
The Sahyadri range and the entire Western ghats is the result of the uninhibited Volcanic activity - The largest and most severe form of Volcanism that earth has witnessed, around 60 million years ago (mind you, that is relatively young) when the Indian plate drifted over a mantle hotpot on its way to collide with the Asian plate. Well, the disturbed activities of these plates and the movements that eventually lead to magma burst had been the contributing factor for the typical step ladder pattern innervating the slopes of the Sahyadri hills at regular intervals amidst patches of vegetations. The basaltic origin of the black cliff lines is clearly evident against the lush green of the Ghats. These steps or traps represent basalt flows that are the most dramatic remnants of the formation of the Deccan. In contrast, though the southern parts of the western ghat (Nilgiris and other southern ranges) are older formations. The difference in their ages and period of formation is clearly visible in the strikingly different topography. Not only the southern ranges are loftier, but they have gentler slopes and this has primarily been responsible for denser forest cover on their slopes. While in Sahyadris, most of the formations are ‘peaked’ with cliffs and steep basalt faces being a distinct feature.
Flora and Fauna
Mostly, the rugged topography of Sahyadris, except for the lush green during monsoons, adorn a yellowish hue of its soil and grass and black basalt with sun baked deciduous shrubs. Evergreen forests do exist, but in patches, smaller enough to be inconspicuous in the deciduous carpet. Evergreens occupy the wet areas along the crestline of the Sahyadris and the Konkan belt. Konkan areas like Ratnagiri, Amboli in southern Maharashtra have good amount wet evergreen forests and host a range of typical rainforest species. Rising up to the crestline, on the plateau are the densities of Koyna Nagar forests. However, due to predominantly lying under a rain shadow zone except for the crestline and Konkan belt, these evergreen forests are in fragmented areas and there are only a few large stretches of contiguous forest areas left. Drier areas further east have moist-deciduous and dry-deciduous scrub forests mixed in with grasslands where the soil is shallow and loose. The varied rainfall pattern and different soil conditions coupled with terrain irregularities cater a wide variety of flora dispersed in the entire ghats and plains, which is beyond the scope of the discussion at this point of time in this introductory article.
Just to mention the variety - The Western Ghats is home to more than 5000 species of flowering plants segmented across 2200 genera and 217 families. More than one third of the entire floral is endemic.
Depending on the forest cover and restricted habitat the faunal features of the terrain differs markedly too. However, the present fauna that Sahyadri houses is no where near to what it was a few decades back. Just to mention the dwindling numbers of ‘Bibtya’ (Striped member of the Big Cat family) and relative inconspicuousness of the ‘Shekhru’ - sub species of the Indian Giant squirrel is alarming and staring threat in our faces. One of the reasons for this is definitely unmindful bio-hazardous activity under the pretense of rural development and upliftment. Well, being rational and trying to identify the causes it has been the irrigation projects, number of dams being constructed, power projects, bringing forest areas under cultivation, commercial forestry and such. The reasons varied - but the impact is unity - thinning forests and wildlife.
Vertebrate diversity and endemism across the hotspot is impressive. Just to have some bare stats - approximately 140 mammal species have been recorded, although endemism is relatively low, with only 18 endemic species. For an Ornithologist and bird enthusiasts a total of 457 bird species occur regularly within the Western Ghats and Sri Lanka; for a herpetologist about 265 species of reptiles have been recorded and so on. These bare stats indicate and speak volumes about the bio diversity existent in this region. The Western Ghats shelters the largest population of Asian elephant with over 10000 of these inhabiting the region.
Interestingly and rather disappointingly, most of the animal species endemic to the Western Ghats are absent in the Sahyadri ranges. There are no lion-tailed macaques, Nilgiri tahr, and Nilgiri langur in the northern ranges of the Western Ghats. As compared to the southern ranges of Nilgiris and the Palghat, Sahyadri is lesser bestowed with the blessing of faunal diversity. The existing faunal and its probable future would be discussed in the following issues.
Sahyadri and History
History books have included it, the glory reiterates it own saga loud and clear - melodious of course, Marathi authors and stalwarts like Babasaheb Purandare and Shriman Yogi have made it possible to permeate the minds of a commoner with the historical significance and the glorified history of the yesteryears - The great era of the great Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It took years and years of slavery under the tyrant, until a visionary like him conceived the might of Sahyadri - as a potent tool, a weapon and also as a shield to fight the atrocious rulers. The steep precipices, inaccessible cliffs, abysmal depths of those falling valleys and the flat tops that these mountains have, all made it ideal defensive strongholds. It was this cognizance that led Shivaji Maharaj to build hill forts on these peaks. It all began from Pune - Torna to be precise and the rage extended across other areas - Sinhagad, Rajgad, Raigad and such to mention a few. It was his genius that extended this vision to be applied to islands as well and build impregnable sea forts like Suvarnadurga, Vijaydurga, Sindhudurga and numerous others.
These hill forts offered ideal foil for the strategic warfare - the Guerilla that Shivaji Maharaj relied upon tactically to combat the might of Moghals. The hide outs in the deep valleys, hill tops, rock cut caves, ravines, wild infested forests and such made it a perfect avenue for the Guerrilla war fare. Panhala to Vishalgad escapade and the famous mention of Pavan khind - a perfect example of what applied topography and unparalleled spirits could deliver. These Khinds, Ghats and fortresses have been mute witnesses to many such battles and escapades and still bear the testimony for an enthusiast.
Sahyadri - Ghats, Khinds and Caves
Sahyadris with its might and all rights continue to impact the lives of the local villagers and hill men in a positive way. However improbable and inaccessible it may seem, the Sahyadri ranges are strategically disrupted by number of ghats and khinds offering a mode of transport and connectivity between the low lying plains of Konkan and the elevated ‘Desh’ on the eastern slopes of the mighty Deccan plateau. Not only these passes and ghats served as a mean of transport for masses, but it also was the only available mode of trade routes then. The significance of Nane Ghat and Bhor Ghat can never be overestimated and the significant role it played in the erstwhile eras. The six lane expressway today can never dim the spirited ventures through these passes that take us back down the pages of history books.
Another interesting feature that wanderlust may come across is the sheer number of caves carved in the belly of impregnable basalts, along the foothills, on the steep slopes and cliffs and on tops of the mountains. These rock-cut caves seem to be omnipresent. These served as rest stops along the montane routes of the ghats and khinds. Nane ghat is a classic example to offer in these regard. Many of these caves were the shelters of the then hermits and saints. Many Buddhist monks were paid for the excavation of caves and hermitages along the way. Karla, Bhaja and Bedse caves near Lonavala all bear testimony to this activity. The interesting use of animal motifs (elephants, lions, tigers, various birds, etc.) suggests a time when the area abounded in wildlife. The most prolific of these rock architectures can be safely assumed to have occurred during the Satvahana rule and many lithographic studies elucidate that many of these caves dates back to the before Christ era.
Development and Conservation
As far as development is concerned, a lot of these areas are already under the cover of tourism and allied activities like wildlife trails and adventures. Although such activities provides a good source of revenue to the local villagers and tribes, rampant, haphazard and unregulated flow have caused an irrepairable damage to the eco system already. The situation is still not out of control and it is never too late to conserve the remaining. In the same wake, a lot of these areas are being brought under the covers of protected areas and forest reserves. India has a national protected area system in place for the purpose and with passage of the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972 and the National Wildlife Action Plan of 1983; it was further reinforced to a considerable extent. India as a bio-diversity hotspot is segmented in 10 bio-geographic zones, of which the Western Ghats has the highest percentage of protected area coverage on the mainland (15%), which is represented in 20 national parks and 68 sanctuaries.
It is heartening to see these legal support and laws being passed in the right wakes, but the onus lies on us. There needs to be an urge to understand the significance of the tangible associated with it - the bio-diversity, the tourism industry, the ecology, revenue; and of course the intangibles like the rich history, deep rooted cultures and mythology woven along with it. Problems do hover along on the horizon with penetration of road ways, hydro electric projects, mining and agricultural expansion, but one can take heart from the fact that there is certainly an increased level of awareness now about these issues than ever before. The future of conservation is still obscure and a matter of concern. Sheer inaccessibility can be viewed as positively and negatively. Negatively because it has for the most part prevented their development; positively because surprisingly and very refreshingly number of trails have a blemish-free feel to them.
We need them, and we better start taking the responsibility on an individual basis.